Tunisian Blanket CAL 2025 – General Information and Practice Square

Happy New Year and welcome to the 2025 Tunisian Blanket CAL! I can’t wait to share all the squares with you and see your amazing projects come together throughout the year! In this post, I will share all the essential details with you, including a practice square to get you started. To support your journey, there’s a collection of videos and photo tutorials available to guide you through making your first square.

The stitches used to create Blackwork designs with Tunisian Mosaic crochet can feel tricky at first, so we’re starting with a small practice square that includes a few diagonal stitches. This square doubles as a gauge swatch and is the same size as the smaller squares in the blanket, so you can include it in your final project if you like. It’s a great starting point for anyone new to this technique, as it covers most of the basics you’ll need before moving on to more intricate designs.

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Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links – please see my affiliate disclosure for details.

Introduction

Mosaic crochet is a beautiful technique that lets you create intricate two-color patterns without needing to change colors mid-row. Each row is made with a single color, and in Tunisian crochet, there’s an extra advantage – you don’t need to weave in ends or add an envelope border. Unlike traditional crochet, Tunisian crochet is worked on one side only, so you never have to turn your work, which also means no cutting or reattaching yarn every row!

In a previous CAL, we explored the basics of Tunisian Mosaic Crochet, which uses only two stitches. However, to create blackwork-style designs, you’ll need to know a couple more stitches that can be created diagonally.

Once you’ve mastered this technique, the possibilities are endless! You can create your own patterns or even take any Blackwork embroidery design and turn it into fabric using Tunisian Mosaic Crochet!

For my blanket, I created 25 large squares and 44 small squares, each with a unique blackwork design framed by a common border to bring them all together. Each square features a distinct Blackwork design in the center, making every square special. When joined, these squares form a beautiful Blackwork sampler blanket.

I hope you enjoy making these squares! I can’t wait to see the creative color combinations you come up with, and I’m excited to see new designs emerge from this technique!

Technique and Difficulty

Note: This blanket is created using the Tunisian Mosaic Crochet technique. For those who participated in my 2023 CAL or completed my course A Beginner’s Guide to Tunisian Mosaic Crochet, please note that this technique differs significantly. I made several key adjustments to the original method I taught in 2023, making this an intermediate-level technique. The pattern will come with video support to guide you through the process.

Intermediate – This pattern is classified as intermediate, but it can be considered advanced if you choose to use black yarn.

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What you will need

Yarn

You can use any yarn for this blanket, but I recommend choosing DK or sport weight yarn in at least two contrasting colors to really make the pattern pop – Be sure to check that the yarn doesn’t bleed color before starting your final project.

For my blanket, I used Hawthorne DK yarn by WeCrochet in the following colors:

Gold Hill Tonal: 2900 yards / 2650 m / 46 oz / 1300 gm (13 skeins)
Blackbird Kettle: 3100 yards / 2850 m / 50 oz / 1400 gm (14 skeins)

Yarn Bundle

Yarn bundles for this pattern will be available on WeCrochet.com, featuring handpicked colors chosen by me. I made some samples using the colors I considered for my own blanket, and you can see them below. You’re welcome to choose a full bundle or mix and match to create your own unique combination. If you prefer a bold look, feel free to experiment with different shades to make a bright and colorful blanket!

Purchase the yarn bundle at a 20% discount!

Smoky Horizon: Astoria Tonal & Bare [Click here to purchase bundle]
Lavender Mist: Sweet Home Tonal & Bare [Click here to purchase bundle]
Coastal Jade: Springfield Tonal & Bare [Click here to purchase bundle]
Frosted Wine: Hood River Tonal & Bare
Classic: Blackbird Kettle & Bare
Sona Snow: Gold Hill Tonal & Bare
Sona: Blackbird Kettle & Gold Hill Tonal [Click here to purchase bundle]

This yardage mentioned above is for the entire blanket as shown in the picture. If you’d prefer a different layout or want to make only one size of squares (either small or large), you can calculate the amount of yarn needed using the yardage listed below.

Here’s a breakdown of the approximate yardage for the different squares and other parts of the blanket:

Large squares: 28 g of each color
Small squares: 7 g of each color
Border: 250 g of each color
Joining and finishing: 150 g of Blackbird Kettle

Note: While working on my blanket, I noticed that the yarn stained my Denise hook, and I was unable to remove the stain. However, I can confirm that the colors did not bleed when I wet blocked my squares.

Here are some other DK weight yarns you can use to make your blanket:

Hook

Pick a hook that is compatible with the yarn you chose. I usually make a gauge swatch with a few different hooks before I pick one. The gauge swatch will give you a good idea of how the fabric will work up and if you would like it to be more or less drapey.

For my squares and the border, I used a 6.5 mm (K-10.5) Tunisian crochet hook. To join the squares and add the finishing touches to the blanket, I used a 5.5 mm (I-9) crochet hook.

Note: This project does NOT require a double-ended hook. The border is worked flat and will need a long cord that can accommodate 265 stitches at once.

The Sona Blanket CAL is supported by Denise hooks, my go-to for years! They were the first hooks I ever bought, and I still use them for most of my projects. Denise is kindly offering a 15% discount for CAL participants with this code: KKCAL2025.

Purchase the complete Denise Hook Set
(use coupon KKCAL2025)

Purchase the complete Denise 2 Hook Set
(use coupon KKCAL2025)

Notions

A measuring tape, a scissors to cut yarn and a tapestry needle to weave in tails.

Note: While it is not required, I highly recommend using a focused reading light if you’re working with dark yarn. Without one, creating my squares would have been much more challenging—having that extra light made a huge difference!

Sizing

The final size of your squares will vary depending on the yarn you select. The following measurements are based on the gauge mentioned in this pattern:

Large squares: 10” (25.5 cm)
Small squares: 4.5” (11.5 cm)
Border: 3” (7.75 cm) wide
Blanket: 65” (165 cm)

Note: If your squares aren’t perfectly square, that’s okay! This will result in a slightly rectangular blanket without requiring any adjustments to the pattern or the border.

Colors

This technique uses two colors—one to create the blackwork design and the other to build the fabric. I’ve referred to the two colors as BC (Blackwork Color) and FC (Fabric Color) for easier reference.

Large Squares and Border:
BC: Blackbird Kettle
FC: Gold Hill Tonal

Small Squares:
BC: Gold Hill Tonal
FC: Blackbird Kettle

Support Videos

All support videos for this CAL can be found on my YouTube channel – Click here for the dedicated playlist.

Abbreviations and Stitches

ch – chain
fs – First Stitch – Skip the first vertical bar of the previous row (the one right under the one on the hook). The loop on the hook will count as the first stitch for every row.
ls – Last Stitch – Pick up the two vertical bars of the last stitch of the previous row, yarn over, pull through both the vertical bars into a loop on the hook.
tss – Tunisian Simple Stitch– Insert hook in the vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
yo – yarn over
FR – Foundation Row
BOR – Bind off Row

The extended stitches (with the abbreviations) are listed separately in the “Blackwork Stitches” section.

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Blackwork Stitches

Left Handed Tutorial

Right Handed Tutorial

Notes for the Blackwork Stitches in this pattern:

The stitch count begins from the next stitch where the upcoming stitch will be created.
When extended stitches need to be combined, they are listed together with a hyphen ‘-‘ separating them. To create these, work each stitch without extensions first, then combine them during the extension step, anchoring them to the previous row.
For a visual reference of all stitches, please see the included tutorials.

A – Extended Tunisian Simple Stitch

A – Locate the stitch that’s two rows below the next stitch, pick up the two vertical bars (both the front and back bars) from within the return pass chain, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, ch 1 (anchor with the previous row here).

B – Extended Tunisian Double Crochet Stitch

B1 – Locate the stitch two rows below, two stitches further for the appropriate tilt, yo, pick up the two vertical bars (both the front and back bars) from within the return pass chain, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, ch 1 (anchor with the previous row here).
B2 – Locate the stitch two rows below, two stitches closer for the appropriate tilt, yo, pick up the two vertical bars (both the front and back bars) from within the return pass chain, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, ch 1 (anchor with the previous row here).

C – Extended Tunisian Treble Crochet Stitch

C1 – Locate the stitch four rows below, two stitches further for the appropriate tilt, yo twice, pick up the two vertical bars (both the front and back bars) from within the return pass chain, yo, pull through, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, ch 1 (anchor with the previous row here).
C2 – Locate the stitch four rows below, two stitches closer for the appropriate tilt, yo twice, pick up the two vertical bars (both the front and back bars) from within the return pass chain, yo, pull through, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, ch 1 (anchor with the previous row here).

D – Extended Tunisian Treble Crochet Stitch

D1 – Locate the stitch two rows below, four stitches further for the appropriate tilt, yo twice, pick up the two vertical bars (both the front and back bars) from within the return pass chain, yo, pull through, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, ch 1 (anchor with the previous row here).
D2 – Locate the stitch two rows below, four stitches closer for the appropriate tilt, yo twice, pick up the two vertical bars (both the front and back bars) from within the return pass chain, yo, pull through, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, ch 1 (anchor with the previous row here).

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General Information

Using Tunisian Mosaic Crochet for blackwork designs creates a look reminiscent of blackwork embroidery, though it won’t replicate it exactly because of the nature of the stitches. You might find that some lines are less straight and some corners aren’t as sharp. However, the overall effect is lovely! Just keep in mind that if you’re aiming for perfectly straight lines and sharp corners, this technique might not meet those expectations.
We change color after every row. Each row is worked with only one color, we do not change color in the middle of any row. The pattern is created by making extended stitches that are worked over the stitches from the previous row.
I recommend using two contrasting colors or if you are using color changing yarn, plan your squares such that the two colors you are working with are different enough for the pattern to pop.
Working with black yarn can be quite challenging, so I strongly recommend using a reading light for better visibility or opt for a lighter contrasting color to make your stitches easier to see.
I recommend blocking your squares before joining, it brings them all to the same size and shape and that makes it so much easier to join them!

Pattern notes

This pattern is written in US Terms.
Every square is worked flat.
Row 1 is the Foundation Row for all the squares in this pattern.
The written instructions are only for the forward pass. The return pass for every row is the same:
ch1, (yo, pull through two loops)* until one loop remains on the hook.
There is no return pass for the bind off row (BOR).
Work all odd numbered rows and the BOR with color BC and all even numbered rows with color FC.
Every stitch you make adds one loop to the hook, including the combination stitches.
All tall stitches are represented by capitalized letters, with “1” and “2” indicating the direction of the tilt.

Tips

Perform a visual inspection after every row. This way, you can easily see the pattern and spot any mistakes.
Always keep a spare small hook handy for picking up stitches, especially for the C and D stitches, which can be tricky when you have many loops on your hook. For guidance, please refer to the included video tutorial.
If a combination starts with an A, place a stitch marker on the vertical bar of the next stitch in the previous row. This will help you easily locate the spot to anchor your stitches after creating the diagonal stitch, which can otherwise be difficult to find.
Keep your stitches loose; this is crucial for ensuring that your blackwork design remains clear and well-defined.
Avoid pulling the last chain of the return pass tightly after a color change. Doing so can make it challenging to create an A stitch two rows ahead.

Pattern Repeats

Repeats are mentioned in this pattern in three different ways:

3 tss ->
tss in the next 3 stitches
(tss, A) * 2 -> tss, A, tss, A
[tss, (tss, A) * 2] * 2 ->
[tss, tss, A, tss, A] * 2 ->
tss, tss, A, tss, A, tss, tss, A, tss, A

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Charts

Note: This section may be challenging to follow without a visual reference. Please refer to the included tutorials for additional guidance.

The stitch counts are not marked on the chart, so I recommend noting the number of stitches in both the small and large squares before you begin. Since the stitch count remains the same throughout each square, you can always refer to your notes to keep track as you go.
The Bind Off Row is not shown in the charts. After completing the last row from the chart, make a row of Tunisian Simple Stitches and make a slip stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Right handed people will work from right to left, bottom to top. Left handed people will work from left to right, bottom to top.
The edge stitches are not included in the chart. You will need to add 2 extra stitches beyond what is shown in the chart.
Rows and Stitches (refer to the included tutorials for a visual reference)
- Rows: Each horizontal line in the grid represents a row, which is worked in color BC. Between these horizontal lines, there’s an additional row worked in color FC.
- Stitches: Stitches are placed at every vertical line and between each pair of vertical lines. All stitches in a row are made with the same color.
Identifying the stitch
- Rows worked with color BC (odd rows) create the Blackwork design, with stitches represented by solid black lines. Any vertical or diagonal line signifies an extended stitch (A, B1/B2, C1/C2, D1/D1), while all other stitches are Tunisian Simple Stitches (tss).
- Rows worked with color FC (even rows) build the background fabric. If you see a grey line, it indicates an Extended Tunisian Simple Stitch (A), while all other stitches are Tunisian Simple Stitches (tss).

Practice square

Left Handed Tutorial

Right Handed Tutorial

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Practice Square Instructions

Note: Remember to change colors after every row. Odd-numbered rows are worked with BC, and even-numbered rows are worked with FC.

Row 1 (FR): This is the Foundation Row.
Chain 19, make the foundation row stitches in the back loops of the chain.

Row 2: fs, 17 tss, ls.

Row 3: fs, A-B1, 15 tss, B2-A, ls.

Row 4: fs, tss, 15 A, tss, ls.

Row 5: fs, A, 15 tss, A, ls.

Row 6: fs, tss, (3 A, 3 tss) * 2, 3 A, tss, ls.

Row 7: fs, A, (3 tss, A, tss, A) * 2, 3 tss, A, ls.

Row 8: Repeat Row 6.

Row 9: fs, A, 7 tss, B2-B1, 7 tss, A, ls.

Row 10: fs, (tss, 7 A) * 2, tss, ls.

Row 11: fs, A, 5 tss, B1, 3 tss, B2, 5 tss, A, ls.

Row 12: Repeat Row 6.

Row 13: Repeat Row 7.

Row 14: Repeat Row 6.

Row 15: Repeat Row 5.

Row 16: Repeat Row 4.

Row 17: fs, A, tss, B2, 11 tss, B1, tss, A, ls.

BOR: fs, 17 tss, ls.

This will be the bind off row. You will make a slip stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Adding Extended Stitch indicators to a Blackwork Embroidery Chart

You can read a Blackwork Embroidery chart and directly create a Tunisian crochet project from it, but I’ve found it’s much easier to follow the chart if you add extended stitch indicators before you start. This video shows you how to do it easily. Once you know this, you can take any Blackwork chart and turn it into a Tunisian crochet project!