Mastering Tunisian Mosaic Crochet Borders!

If you’re familiar with my work, you’d know how much I enjoy Tunisian Mosaic Crochet. Dive into this tutorial where I’ll show you how to craft stunning mosaic borders using this technique!

If you’re familiar with working in a round, this will be a breeze! Just grasp the two stitches used in Tunisian Mosaic crochet, and you’re good to go.

This design doesn’t require an envelope border, setting it apart from traditional mosaic crochet projects. However, you are free to add one if you prefer!

I applied this technique to my Zuri Blanket (the 2023 CAL blanket) with great results! Explore the blanket and its border instructions on my blog.

Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links – please see my affiliate disclosure for details.

For those new to Tunisian Mosaic crochet, I provide a beginner-friendly course that delves deep into the technique’s fundamentals. Dive in to master the basics – A beginner’s guide to Tunisian Mosaic Crochet.

Note: I will share two videos from this course on my ad-supported YouTube channel. You can find them here if you’d like to take a look before you make your purchase.

Video Tutorial

Hook and Yarn

Hook – To work a mosaic crochet border, you will need a double ended Tunisian crochet hook. I usually construct a double ended hook by joining two hooks from my Denise Interchangeable Hook set with a short cord. In this tutorial, I’ve used a 6 mm hook for my forward pass and a 5.5 mm hook for my reverse pass.

Yarn – Choose a yarn that complements the one you used for the square. This ensures a seamless look when crafting your border around it.

Notes

How to read the chart

1. Symbols and numbers on the chart:
   • Stitch numbers are NOT mentioned in the chart. 
   • The black and white rectangles seen at the corners aren’t included in the pattern. Instead, they signify that a single color is used throughout the round and display the round numbers for the border. 
2. Round 1 serves as the Foundation Round, where stitches are picked up from the central square.
3. The red squares indicate the starting point for left and right handed crocheters.
   • Right handed crocheters –
     • Start at the stitch next to the edge stitch at the top right corner (indicated by a red square).
   • Left handed crocheters – 
     • Start at the stitch next to the edge stitch at the top left corner (indicated by a red square). 
     • The symbols C1 and C2 will be flipped. 
4. The Bind Off Round is not shown in the chart. Refer to the written instructions for the border after you complete the last round from the chart. 
5. Only one loop will be picked up in every corner.

Pattern Notes

1. The border is worked in a round.
2. Some rounds follow a spiral pattern, while in others, you’ll need to cut and reattach the yarn after each round. It’s a good idea to view the video tutorial before beginning your border.
3. Each round will require two strands of yarn of the same color – strand A for the forward pass and strand B for the return pass.
   1. Forward pass – With the right side facing you, pick up loops using strand A on one end of the hook. Use this strand to crochet your tss and etss stitches.
   2. Return pass – With the wrong side facing you, use strand B at the other end of the hook to work loops off.
      • When starting a new round with a fresh strand of yarn, pull strand B through just one loop at the round’s beginning. Continue by yarning over and pulling through 2 loops until only 3 or 4 loops remain on the hook.
      • When working in a spiral, continue yarning over and pulling through 2 loops until just 3 or 4 loops remain on your hook.
      • The written instructions for the border pattern don’t include directions for the return pass.
4. Turn your work each time you want to pick up or close loops.
5. Prior to changing color, follow the Return Pass instructions, working loops off the hook until only one loop left on the hook, and then cut the yarn.
6. TIP: Weaving in ends can be a bit challenging. I recommend viewing the video tutorial before you start.

Chart

Colors

Color A = Grey
Color B = White

Pattern Repeats

All stitches are made in the next available stitch unless mentioned otherwise. Repeats are mentioned in three different ways: 

1. 3 tss ->
   tss in the next 3 stitches 
2. (tss, etss) * 2 -> tss, etss, tss, etss 
3. [tss, (tss, etss) * 2] * 2 ->
   [tss, tss, etss, tss, etss] * 2 ->
   tss, tss, etss, tss, etss, tss, tss, etss, tss, etss 

Abbreviations

1. tss – Tunisian Simple Stitch– Insert hook in the vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
2. etss – Front Post Extended Tunisian Simple Stitch – Locate the stitch that’s two rows below the next stitch. Pick up the two vertical bars (front and back bars) from above the return pass chain, yarn over, pull through, chain 1. 
3. twtks – Twisted Tunisian Knit Stitch – Insert hook in between the 2 vertical bars in the opposite direction, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
4. twtss – Twisted Tunisian Simple Stitch (twisted upwards) – Insert hook in the vertical bar in the opposite direction, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
5. twtss-twtks – Twisted Tunisian Simple Stitch and Twisted Tunisian Knit Stitch in the same stitch
6. tks-tss – Tunisian Knit Stitch and Tunisian Simple Stitch in the same stitch.
7. yo  – yarn over

Instructions (Border)

Note: The border instructions are worked around a center square that is made up of 17 rows of 19 stitches (including the edge stitches).

Round 1 – Work with color A.
Top Edge: Start at the stitch next to the edge stitch at the top right corner (top left corner for left handed crocheters). Pick up 17 stitches at the top of square, stop one stitch before the next corner stitch.

Left Edge (Right Edge for left handed crocheters): Pick a stitch in the corner stitch and then in every edge stitch and then in the corner stitch at the other end.

The remaining two edges: Pick up stitches like the opposite edge. 

Round 2 (continue working in a spiral with color A) –
(twtss-twtks, 15 tss, tks-tss) * 4.

Round 3 (continue working in a spiral with color A) –
(twtss-twtks, 17 tss, tks-tss) * 4.

Round 4 – Work with color B.
(twtss-twtks, 19 tss, tks-tss) * 4

Round 5 – Work with color A.
[twtss-twtks, (3 tss, 3 etss) * 3, 3 tss, tks-tss] * 4

Round 6 – Work with color B.
[twtss-twtks, tss, (etss, tss, etss, 3 tss) * 3, (etss, tss) * 2, tks-tss] * 4

Round 7 – Work with color A.
[twtss-twtks, tss, etss, (3 tss, 3 etss) * 3, 3 tss, etss, tss, tks-tss] * 4

Round 8 – Work with color A.
(twtss-twtks, 27 tss, tks-tss) * 4

Round 9 – Work with color A.
(twtss-twtks, 29 tss, tks-tss) * 4

Bind Off Round – Work with color A.
(twtss-twtks, 31 tss, tks-tss) * 4.
This will be the bind off round. You will make a slip stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook. Join with the first stitch with an invisible join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. 

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