Sparsh Poncho – Free Pattern!

Have you tried making a garment before? I have always wanted to make something more structured than my usual shawls and blankets but I was a little overwhelmed by all the sizing details that I needed to consider while designing one. This poncho is my first attempt and I am quite pleased with how it turned out 🙂 It is made up of 3 rectangles using only two stitches – Tunisian Simple Stitch and Tunisian Purl Stitch. It is an easy pattern that is made using bulky yarn so it works up really quickly too!

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Pattern

This pattern is available for free on my blog. I would love to see your projects on Instagram! Tag your posts with:
@knitterknotter #knitterknotter #sparshponcho

If you would like a PDF version of this pattern in one printable file (or just to support me), you can purchase a print-friendly ad-free version of this pattern from my Ravelry, LoveCrafts and Etsy shops. Click on the links below to grab the PDF version of this design.

Purchase PDF from Etsy

Purchase PDF from LoveCrafts

Purchase PDF from Ravelry

The yarn

Caron Latte Cakes have been on my list of yarns to try for a long time. On every trip to Michaels, I would pick up a skein or two and then put them back because I didn’t have a design in mind for them. When I decided to make my poncho with bulky weight yarn, I knew that this yarn was the perfect choice for it. What I like best about it is that it is extremely soft and warm and comes in a variety of colors!

What you will need 

1. Yarn: Bulky weight yarn (See Sizing section for yarn requirements)
2. Hook: 9 mm Tunisian crochet hook 
3. 6 buttons: The pictured buttons measure 3 cm in diameter.
4. Scissors
5. Measuring tape
6. Stitch markers (optional)
7. Tapestry needle to weave in tails

Experience level

Beginner

Sizing

Size	Fits chest / bust circumference	Neck circumference	Size of body panel  (L x W)	Yarn needed	Number of cakes needed
2T	24″ – 28″	18″	15″ x 21″	555 yards / 9.25 oz	1
4	27″ – 30″	18″	16″ x 23″	620 yards / 10.5 oz	2
6	29″ – 32″	19″	17″ x 24″	680 yards / 11.5 oz	2
8	31″ – 33″	20″	19″ x 25″	770 yards / 13 oz	2
10	32″ – 34″	21″	22″ x 26″	910 yards / 15 oz	2
S	33″ – 38″	22″	24″ x 27″	1000 yards / 16.5 oz	2
M	37″ – 42″	22″	25″ x 29″	1100 yards / 18 oz	2
L	41″ – 46″	24″	26″ x 31″	1200 yards / 20 oz	3
XL	45″ – 50″	24″	27″ x 33″	1300 yards / 22 oz	3
2X	49″ – 54″	26″	28″ x 35″	1430 yards / 24 oz	3
3X	53″ – 58″	26″	29″ x 37″	1600 yards / 25 oz	3
4X	57″ – 62″	26″	30″ x 39″	1650 yards / 27 oz	3

Note: Go up a size if you are looking for a loose fit.

Gauge

7 rows of 10 Tunisian Simple stitches is a 3 inch square

Abbreviations

1. ch – chain
2. fs – first stitch – Skip the first vertical bar of the previous row (the one right under the one on the hook). The loop on the hook will count as the first stitch for every row.
3. ls – Last Stitch – Pick up the two vertical bars of the last stitch of the previous row, yarn over, pull up a loop through both the vertical bars.
4. tps – Tunisian Purl Stitch – Bring yarn forward, insert hook into the vertical bar, yarn over, pull through into a loop on the hook.
5. tss – Tunisian Simple Stitch – Insert hook in the vertical bar, yarn over, pull through the vertical bar into a loop on the hook.
6. RS – Right Side
7. WS – Wrong Side

Resources

Photo and video (left and right handed) tutorials for Tunisian crochet stitches and techniques used in this pattern:

1. How to make the Foundation Row
2. Tunisian Honeycomb Stitch
3. Tunisian Simple Stitch
4. Tunisian Purl Stitch
5. How to Bind Off

Adjustments

To adjust length: add / remove 3 sts for every inch 
To adjust width: add / remove 5 rows for every 2 inches

Note: The number of stitches are just an estimation. If you are looking for an exact size, please measure your panels as you make them and adjust them as needed.

Pattern notes

1. This pattern is written in US terms.
2. The instructions are written for the smallest size. The following sizes are mentioned in (). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
3. The body of this poncho is made using two rectangular panels that are seamed together at the shoulders. A cowl is then made separately and attached to the body.
4. All the panels are made from side to side and NOT from top to bottom.
5. The return pass is the same for all rows: 
   • ch 1, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) across until one loop remains on hook.

Instructions

Body (Make 2)

Foundation Row: Chain 47 (50, 53, 59, 68, 75, 78,81,84, 87, 90, 93). Make the foundation row stitches in the back loops of the chain. Note: The numbers indicate the number of stitches per row.

Row 1: fs, (tss, tps) * repeat until the end of the row, ls

Row 2: fs, (tps, tss) * repeat until the end of the row, ls

Rows 3 – 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.

Row 7: fs, tss across, ls Repeat Row 7 until your panel measures 19 (21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) inches wide.  Note: The numbers here indicate the number of inches and NOT the number of stitches per row.

Next 5 rows: Repeat Rows 1 and 2

Last Row: Repeat Row 2 (Bind off). This row is the same as other rows except that you will make a slip stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook. There will be no reverse pass for this row. Cut yarn and leave a long tail for joining.

Joining (Body Panels)

 Use a tapestry needle and join the two body panels with their RS facing each other. Sew from points A to B and from points D to E such that B to D measures about 9 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13) inches.

Notes: 
1. The neck measurements are a recommendation. Please use your judgement and join the panels leaving space for the neck as needed. If you do divert from the pattern, please measure the distance between points B and D. This will be needed when you make the cowl.
2. Do not turn the body inside out after this.

Cowl (Make 1)

Foundation Row: Chain 25. Make the foundation row stitches in the back loops of the chain.

Row 1: fs, (tss, tps) * repeat until the end of the row, ls

Row 2: fs, (tps, tss) * repeat until the end of the row, ls

Row 3 – Last Row: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until your panel is 18 (18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26) inches long. (Note: If you had made an adjustment to the body panels, use the measurement from B to D times 2 instead.) Make sure that the last row is the bind off row. Cut yarn and leave a long tail to seam edges. Then, seam the two short edges of the cowl and weave in ends.

Joining (Cowl and Body)

 Place the joined body panels with their WS facing outside and the cowl panel with its RS facing outside. Seam the cowl and body panels together (make sure that the seam of the cowl is at point C of the back panel of the body)

The cowl and the body are joined this way because when the poncho is worn, the cowl will be folded outwards and the honeycomb stitch in the cowl will be visible on the RS of the poncho.

Notes:
1. It might be helpful to use stitch markers to identify the points B, C and D on both panels of the body before you start seaming. 
2. You could also attach the cowl with the body panels with stitch markers or pins to hold the panels together while you stitch around.

Adding buttons

Attach the buttons spaced about 3.5 inches from each other on the front panel of your poncho. I attached mine so the two panels are joined at the point the buttons are attached and the buttons are for decorative purposes only. You are welcome to experiment and find what placement works best for you.

Pattern

This pattern is available for free on my blog. I would love to see your projects on Instagram! Tag your posts with:
@knitterknotter #knitterknotter #sparshponcho

If you would like a PDF version of this pattern in one printable file (or just to support me), you can purchase a print-friendly ad-free version of this pattern from my Ravelry, LoveCrafts and Etsy shops. Click on the links below to grab the PDF version of this design.

Other patterns you might be interested in

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Copyright and Terms of Use

This pattern is for personal use only. You are welcome to make and sell handmade items using this pattern but you are required to credit the design to Arunima Goel @ KnitterKnotter by linking back to https://knitterknotter.com. Do not publish or sell this pattern, in part or in full and do not make any video tutorials of this pattern without my permission. When featuring KnitterKnotter in pattern roundups, blog articles or Facebook posts, you may use one of my photos and provide a link back to the original source.

Disclosure

This page may contain affiliate links where I earn a small commission. While using these links doesn’t cost you more, it helps me continue to offer patterns for free. Thank you for your continued support!

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