I have a Christmas tree that we decorate as a family every year. It is our first tree and, even though we have had it for a few years, I’ve never had a tree skirt for it. This year I decided to make one myself and, while I found a lot of knit and crochet patterns, I couldn’t find any Tunisian crochet patterns for it!
I wanted to make a simple crochet tree skirt, an easy crochet project that I could work on while I was relaxing or watching television. So, I ended up designing this tree skirt with Tunisian Knit Stitches mainly which gives it a beautiful knit look and the pattern is easy to memorize so I didn’t have to look at the instructions while working on it. What makes it even better is that I carried the yarn in the back so I had very few ends to weave in! 🙂
This pattern is fully customizable too, you can make it in any size depending on what the size of your tree is. I have included a chart below with the recommended tree skirt size for different tree sizes.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you, if you make a purchase through the link.
Do you need a Christmas crochet tree skirt (or collar)?
Like I mentioned earlier, I’ve had a tree for a few years but I didn’t have a tree skirt for it. It was alright because the tree was hidden behind the couch and you couldn’t really see the base. Now that I have made one, I feel that it makes a world of difference. It completes the look of the tree and covers up the bottom which is usually not pretty. If you make your own, you can pick colors that match the decor of your house and the ornaments on the tree. It gives your tree a beautiful finishing touch 🙂
How to crochet a Christmas tree skirt
A Christmas crochet tree skirt is a piece of fabric that goes at the bottom of the tree and covers the entire base. While it is usually a round, it could be any shape with a hole in the center to accommodate the trunk of the tree. Since it has to be wrapped around the tree, it is not worked in a round and you work in rows instead. I lay mine with the edges overlapped at it works out okay but it is also possible to add buttons or a tie to keep it in place.
The yarn
I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn in colors Joshua Tree, Badlands, and Great Sand Dunes. I really like this yarn because of the stitch definition and that it is offered in a range of beautiful colors.
PURCHASE LION BRAND HEARTLAND YARN
The hooks
I used my Knitter’s Pride Ginger Interchangeable Tunisian Crochet Hook and Clover Amour Hook to make this crochet tree skirt.
In Tunisian crochet, we usually use a hook that is at least 2 sizes larger than the hook recommended for the yarn. The recommended hook size for this yarn is 6 mm and I used a 8 mm Tunisian crochet hook to work on this project.
Here is a review of the Ginger Tunisian Crochet hooks if you’d like to take a look. There are a bunch of other Tunisian crochet hooks that I use. You can read a review of all the hooks I use here.
PURCHASE THE KNITTER’S PRIDE GINGER TUNISIAN CROCHET HOOK SET
PURCHASE THE CLOVER AMOUR CROCHET HOOK SET
Pattern Sizing
This pattern is written for a 44” (diameter) tree skirt. If you want to make a crochet tree skirt of a different size, the pattern is easily adjustable: Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you reach the intended diameter minus 4.5 inches (stop at a repeat of Row 1). Make rows 48 – 54 to end your tree skirt.
Here is a size chart with the recommended size for a tree skirt for different tree sizes. This chart is just a recommendation, please measure the width of the lowest branches of your Christmas tree, and add 4 – 6” to determine the appropriate size of the skirt for your tree.
| Diameter | Recommended for tree size |
| 15” (38 cms) | Tabletop (upto 2’) |
| 21” (53 cms) | 3’ – 4’ |
| 44” (111 cms) | 5’ |
| 50” (127 cms) | 6’ – 8’ |
| 58” (147 cms) | > 9’ |
If you are wondering what the circumference of my tree skirt is, it measures approximately 140 inches (350 cms).
Pattern
Scroll down for the free crochet tree skirt pattern. An inexpensive, printable ad-free PDF version with a photo tutorial and some additional pictures is available for purchase in my Ravelry, Etsy and LoveCrochet shops. Click on a link below to grab the PDF version of this design.
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Pin this for later!
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What you will need (with clickable affiliate links)
- Yarn: 1100 yards of medium weight yarn (Worsted or Aran).
- I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn (100% Acrylic) in the following colors:
- JoshuaTree – 215 yards / 200 m / 4.25 oz / 120 gms (1 skein)
- Badlands – 480 yards / 440 m / 9.5 oz / 270 gms `(2 skeins)
- Great Sand Dunes – 380 yards / 350 m / 7.5 oz / 214 gms (2 skeins)
- I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn (100% Acrylic) in the following colors:
- Hook: 8 mm (L – 11) Tunisian crochet hook, 6.5 mm (K – 10.5) crochet hook
- Scissors
- Measuring Tape
- Tapestry needle to weave in tails
- 16 Stitch markers
- Yarn bowl (optional)
* Yarn requirements are just estimates. If you choose to make a different size or if your yarn, hook size, crochet style, or gauge differ, you might need more / less yarn than mentioned above.
Experience Level
Advanced Beginner – The pattern expects basic knowledge of starting and ending a Tunisian crochet project and how to make Tunisian Knit, Full and Reverse Stitches.
Gauge
7 rows of 6 Tunisian Knit Stitches make a 2 inch square.
Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- fs – First Stitch – Skip the first vertical bar of the previous row (the one right under the one on the hook). The loop on the hook will count as the first stitch for every row.
- ls – Last Stitch – Pick up the two vertical bars of the last stitch of the previous row, yarn over, pull up a loop through both the vertical bars.
- sc – Single Crochet – Insert hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook, yarn over, pull through two loops.
- tfs – Tunisian Full Stitch– Insert hook into the next space between two stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
- tks – Tunisian Knit Stitch – Insert hook in the space between the two vertical bars of the next stitch, pull up a loop on the hook.
- trs – Tunisian Reverse Stitch – Insert hook in the back vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop through the vertical bar.
- FP – Forward Pass
- RP – Return Pass
Colors
C1: Great Sand Dunes
C2: Badlands
C3: Joshua Tree
| Rows | Color |
| Foundation Row – Row 3 | C1 |
| Rows 4 – 7 | C2 |
| Row 8 | C1 |
| Rows 9 – 12 | C3 |
| Row 13 | C1 |
| Rows 14 – 18 | C2 |
| Row 19 | C1 |
| Rows 20 – 24 | C3 |
| Row 25 | C1 |
| Rows 26 – 31 | C2 |
| Row 32 | C1 |
| Rows 33 – 38 | C3 |
| Rows 39 – 48 | C1 |
| Rows 49 – 54 | C2 |
Adjustments
This crochet tree skirt pattern is customizable and can be made in different sizes, as needed. See the Pattern Sizing section for details.
Resources
- How to change color at the beginning of a Forward Pass
- How to make a Foundation Row
- How to make a Tunisian Full Stitch
- How to make a Tunisian Knit Stitch
- How to make a Tunisian Reverse Stitch
- How to bind off and end a project
- Tunisian Crochet Hooks
- How to block a crochet project
Pattern Notes
- This pattern is written in English / US terms.
- This project is worked flat and does NOT require a double ended hook.
- This tree skirt is made in the shape of an octagon (there are 8 edges) and the stitches with the stitch markers indicate the corners.
- Stitch counts are not mentioned in the pattern. Throughout the pattern, 16 stitches are added on every alternate row.
- It is possible to stop the tree skirt from ruffling by adding a repeat of Row 2 as needed.
- It is easy to adjust the size of your tree skirt, see the Pattern Sizing section for details.
- Row-wise colors are mentioned above separately for my 44” tree skirt. Please choose colors as needed for the size you are making.
- Repeats in the pattern are mentioned in brackets (…). The number of times you must repeat everything between the brackets is mentioned right after.
- I strongly recommend the use of stitch markers, please do not skip them.
- The Knit and Reverse stitches in the border are staggered.
- A Knit stitch is made on a Reverse stitch from the previous row.
- A Reverse stitch is made on a Knit stitch from the previous row.
- Special instructions for the first and last repeats on every row:
- For the first repeat, skip the first tks. The loop on the hook counts as the first stitch.
- For the last repeat, skip the last tks and make an edge stitch by picking up the two vertical bars of the edge stitch from the previous row.
- TIP: Do not forget to count your stitches! It is easy to miss or add a knit stitch along the way.
- The instructions below are only for the forward pass. The return pass for every row is the same:
- ch1, (yo, pull through two loops)* until one loop remains on the hook.
Instructions
| Row(s) | Instructions (FP only, see Pattern Notes for the RP) |
| Foundation Row | Chain 24, make the foundation row stitches in the back loops of the chain. Add a stitch marker to the stitches numbered (1, 3), (4, 6), (7, 9), (10, 12), (13, 15), (16, 18), (19, 21), (22, 24). The stitch marker pairs indicate the beginning and end of every repeat. Move them up on completion of every row. Note: All stitches with stitch markers will be Tunisian Knit Stitches throughout the pattern. |
| 1 | (tks, tfs, tks in all the stitches between the previous and next stitch markers, tfs, tks) * 8 times. * See Pattern Notes for special instructions about the first and last repeats. The number of stitches in this row is 16 more than the previous row. |
| 2 | fs, tks across, ls. |
| 3 – 47 | Repeat Rows 1 – 2, stop at a repeat of Row 1. |
| 48 | (tks, *tks, trs; repeat from * until the stitch before the next stitch marker, tks) * 8 times. * See Pattern Notes for special instructions about the first and last repeats. |
| 49 | (tks, tfs, *trs, tks; repeat from * until the stitch before the next stitch marker, tfs, tks) * 8 times. * See Pattern Notes for special instructions about the first and last repeats. * The number of stitches in this row is 16 more than the previous row. |
| 50 | (tks, *trs, tks; repeat from * until the stitch before the next stitch marker, tks) * 8 times * See Pattern Notes for special instructions about the first and last repeats. |
| 51 | (tks, tfs, *tks, trs; repeat form * until the stitch before the next stitch marker, tfs, tks) * 8 times * See Pattern Notes for special instructions about the first and last repeats. * The number of stitches in this row is 16 more than the previous row. |
| 52 – 53 | Repeat rows 48 and 49. |
| 54 | Repeat Row 50 with a 6.5 mm hook. This will be the bind off row. You will make a sc stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook. There is no return pass for this row. Do not cut yarn, continue to the Edging section. |
Edging
Continue working with the 6.5 mm hook and the yarn from Row 54. Make 2 more sc stitches in the same stitch as the last sc (a total of 3 stitches in the corner), sc in each edge stitch, 3 sc in the corner, sc in each chain of the foundation chain, 3 sc in the corner, sc in each edge stitch (make sure to trap the carried over yarn in the back), end with 2 sc stitches in the first stitch of the last row, join with the first bind off sc of the row with a slip stitch or an invisible join. Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Blocking
I recommend blocking the tree skirt using your preferred method of blocking before use. I have found that steam blocking works best for acrylic yarn so I steam blocked my tree skirt.
Pattern
Scroll down for the free pattern. An inexpensive, printable ad-free PDF version with a photo tutorial and some additional pictures is available for purchase in my Ravelry, Etsy and LoveCrochet shops. Click on a link below to grab the PDF version of this design.
I would love to see your projects on Instagram! Tag your posts with:
@knitterknotter #knitterknotter #madewithknitterknotter
I would love to see your projects on Instagram! Tag your posts with:
@knitterknotter #knitterknotter #madewithknitterknotter
Other patterns you might be interested in
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Copyright and Terms of Use
This pattern is for personal use only. You are welcome to make and sell handmade items using this pattern but you are required to credit the design to Arunima Goel @ KnitterKnotter by linking back to https://knitterknotter.com. Do not publish or sell this pattern, in part or in full and do not make any video tutorials of this pattern without my permission. When featuring KnitterKnotter in pattern roundups, blog articles or Facebook posts, you may use one of my photos and provide a link back to the original source.
Disclosure
This page may contain affiliate links where I earn a small commission. While using these links doesn’t cost you more, it helps me continue to offer patterns for free. Thank you for your continued support!
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