Have you ever attempted crafting slippers with a Tunisian crochet squares pattern? Tunisian crochet produces a thick fabric, perfect for cozy slippers. I’ve now crafted several pairs and they’re incredibly comfy!
Once, I came across a pair of granny square slippers and thought, “Why not try these with Tunisian crochet?” The result was even better than I had imagined! The crafting process is straightforward, and you can play around with any color combination.
This pattern for Tunisian slippers uses a combination of Tunisian stitches. However, it’s a really fun and easy pattern that takes advantage of creating quick small squares. Then you’ll sew them together to craft a slipper!
This Slipper pattern comes in many sizes to fit US Woman shoe size 4 to 12.
Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links – please see my affiliate disclosure for details.
Slipper Pattern Sizing
- The pattern is written for the smallest woman’s size with changes for larger women’s sizes in parentheses.
- S (M, L, XL)
- For the best fit, please choose a size that has a finished foot measurement of approximately 1/2″ (1.3 cm) – 1” (2.5 cm) smaller than your actual foot length.
- The Ashlesha slippers are meant to be a snug fit. If you need them to be looser / tighter, make sure you read the Adjustments section.
Yarn requirements are just estimates. If your yarn, hook size, crochet style, or gauge differ, you might need more / less yarn than mentioned below.
| Size (US Shoe Size) | To Fit | Yardage |
| S | 4-6 | Per Pair: 1.3 oz / 36.9 g / 170 yds / 156 m C4: 0.7 oz / 19.8 g / 91 yds / 84 m C1, C2, C3 Each: 0.2 oz / 5.7 g / 26 yds / 24 m |
| M | 6.5-8 | Per Pair: 1.6 oz / 45.4 g/ 209 yds / 192 m C4: 0.8 oz / 22.7 g / 104 yds / 96 m C1, C2, C3 Each: 0.2 oz / 5.7 g / 26 yds / 24 m |
| L | 8.5-10 | Per Pair: 1.9 oz / 53.9 g / 250 yds / 228 m C4: 1 oz / 28.3 g / 130 yds / 120 m C1, C2, C3 Each: 0.3 oz / 8.5 g / 39 yds / 36 m |
| XL | 10.5-12 | Per Pair: 2.3 oz / 65.2 g / 300 yds / 275 m C4: 1.2 oz / 34 g / 157 yds / 144 m C1, C2, C3 Each: 0.35 oz / 9.9 g / 45 yds / 42 m |
Tunisian Crochet Squares Slipper Pattern
Scroll down for the free pattern.
A printable ad-free version is available for purchase in my Ravelry, Etsy and LoveCrochet shops.
Click on the links below to purchase the ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern.
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Tunisian-In-The-Round
Tunisian-in-the-round involves working in a continuous spiral with a double-ended hook, using one color for the forward pass and another for the return pass. If you’re new to this technique, I have a course that explains it in detail.
Note: The two patterns included in the course will be shared as free patterns on my ad-supported blog after June ’24.
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What you will need (with clickable affiliate links)
- Yarn: Fingering weight yarn in at least 2 colors. See the Sizing section for yardage.
- I used Stroll Tweed fingering weight yarn by Knit Picks in colors Persimmon Heather, Indigo Heather, Forest Heather and Down Heather (211m / 231 yds; 65% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon, 10% Donegal Tweed).
- Hook: 4 mm (G-6) double ended Tunisian crochet hook, 3.25 mm (D-3) crochet hook
- Scissors
- Measuring Tape
- Tapestry needle to weave in tails
- 4 Stitch markers
- Yarn bowl (optional)
Tunisian Hooks
I made these Slippers with a 4 mm Clover Double Ended hook. You can find a full review of all the hooks I own on my blog.
Yarn
I have used the Stroll Tweed fingering weight yarn by Knit Picks to make my slippers. It is easy to work with and makes a dense fabric which is stretchy but doesn’t really change shape with wear. The slippers are light and comfortable to wear.
Experience Level
Intermediate – The pattern expects basic knowledge of starting and ending a Tunisian crochet project and how to work in a round.
Gauge
10 rows of 12 stitches in the Tunisian Honeycomb Stitch pattern is a 2” square using a 4 mm (G-6) Tunisian crochet hook.
If your gauge is different than mine, it will affect the size of the slippers. They may end up being smaller or larger than the measurements listed.
Construction
Each Tunisian crochet squares slipper is constructed by making 6 small squares and then joining them to make a slipper.
Abbreviations
- sc – single crochet – Insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook.
- tks – Tunisian Knit Stitch – Insert hook in the space between the two vertical bars of the next stitch, pull up a loop on the hook.
- tps – Tunisian Purl Stitch – Bring yarn forward, insert hook into the vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
- tss – Tunisian Simple Stitch – Insert hook in the vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
- twtks – Twisted Tunisian Knit Stitch – Insert hook in between the two vertical bars of the next stitch in the opposite direction as compared to the Tunisian Knit
Stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook. - twtss – Twisted Tunisian Simple Stitch – Insert hook in the vertical bar from bottom to top in the opposite direction as compared to the Tunisian Simple Stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
- yo – yarn over
- FP – Forward Pass
- RP – Return Pass
Colors
C1: Persimmon Heather
C2: Forest Heather
C3: Indigo Heather
C4: Down Heather
Adjustments
To adjust the slipper size, simply add or remove rounds from all the squares uniformly.
Support Videos for these Slippers
Resources
- How to make the Tunisian Twisted Knit Stitch
- How to make the Tunisian Twisted Simple Stitch
- How to make the Tunisian Knit Stitch
- How to make the Tunisian Simple Stitch
- How to make the Tunisian Purl Stitch
- How to make the Tunisian Honeycomb Stitch
- How to bind off and end a project
- Tunisian Crochet Hooks
- How to block a crochet project
Tunisian Crochet Squares Pattern Notes
- This pattern is written in English / US terms.
- Please note there are affiliate links and helpful tutorial links throughout this post.
Colors Sequence in my 6 Tunisian Crochet Squares
The reverse pass color (C4) remains the same for every square. Please note that some rounds may not apply to all sizes. The forward pass colors are as follows:
Squares #1 and #2:
C3: Rounds 1, 2 and 3.
C1: Rounds 4, 5 and 6.
C2: Rounds 7, 8 and 9.
C3: Rounds 10 and 11.
Squares #3 and #4:
C2: Rounds 1, 2 and 3.
C3: Rounds 4, 5 and 6.
C1: Rounds 7, 8 and 9.
C2: Rounds 10 and 11.
Squares #5 and #6:
C1: Rounds 1, 2 and 3.
C2: Rounds 4, 5 and 6.
C3: Rounds 7, 8 and 9.
C1: Rounds 10 and 11.
Pattern Repeats
All stitches are made in the next available stitch unless mentioned otherwise. Repeats are mentioned in this pattern in 2 different ways:
- (tps, tss) * 2 ->
tps, tss, tps, tss - [tss, (tss, tps) * 2] * 2 ->
[tss, tss, tps, tss, tps] * 2 ->
tss, tss, tps, tss, tps, tss, tss, tps, tss, tps
Instructions (Make 2)
Notes:
- The color changes are not mentioned in the instructions below since there are 3 different sets of squares. For color changes see the Colors section above.
- Tip #1 – Work on one edge at a time. This, along with the stitch marker that marks the beginning of every round, helps in figuring out exactly where you are without having to look at the stitches or the pattern.
- Tip #2 – If it gets too confusing to work on the square during the first few rounds, it helps to add one stitch marker to the beginning of every repeat (which will mark the beginning of every edge). Use a different color marker for the beginning of the round because then you won’t have to count your repeats.
Round 1:
FP: Using the size 4 mm (G-6) Tunisian crochet double ended hook, pick up 12 loops in the magic ring: (insert hook into the magic ring, yo, pick up a loop, chain 1) * 12.
Place a stitch marker in the first loop on the hook. This marks the beginning of this round.
# of stitches in this round: 12
RP: Move all loops on the hook to the other end. Turn the project. With return pass color, chain 1, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) across until 3 loops remains on hook. Move all the remaining loops to the other end and turn the project again – the right side of the project will be facing you now.
If you need help with working in a round, please see the support video linked in the RESOURCES section.
For all the following rounds – The stitch marker in the previous round will indicate the first stitch that the stitches of the current round will be worked into. Move the stitch marker up every time a new round is started.
Round 2
FP: (twtss and twtks in the same stitch, tss, tks and tss in the same stitch) * 4
# of stitches in this round: 20
RP: After every repeat move all loops on the hook to the other end and turn the project. With the return pass yarn, (yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) across until 3 loops remains on hook. Move all the remaining loops to the other end and turn the project again – the right side of the square will be facing you now.
Round 3
FP: (twtss and twtks in the same stitch, tss, tps, tss, tks and tss in the same stitch) * 4
# of stitches in this round: 28
RP: Same as RP of Round 2.
Round 4
FP: [twtss and twtks in the same stitch, tss, (tps, tss) * 2, tks and tss in the same stitch] * 4
# of stitches in this round: 36
RP: Same as RP of Round 2.
Rounds 5 – 7 (8, 9, 10)
FP: [twtss and twtks in the same stitch, tss, (tps, tss) * one more time as compared to the previous round, tks and tss in the same stitch] * 4.
RP: Same as RP of Round 2.
After completing the Reverse Pass (when one loop remains on the hook), cut
Reverse Pass yarn and weave in the end.
Round 8 (9, 10, 11) – Bind Off Round
FP: Continue working with the Forward Pass yarn from the previous round.
[twtss, tss, (tps, tss) * number of times as in the previous round, tks] * 4
# of stitches in this round: 60 (68, 76, 84)
This is the Bind Off round. You will make a slip stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook.
RP: There is no return pass. Cut yarn and weave in ends securely.
Assembly and Border
Notes:
- Join 6 squares to make each slipper.
- Tip: While joining the squares, slip stitch with an earlier sc stitch at each corner to get a clean join at the corners. See the support video for details.
- In the picture below:
- The colored lines indicate the edges that will be seamed together.
- The dotted lines indicate the edges that will not be seamed. They will instead have a border.
Step 1: Place the Tunisian crochet squares pattern as shown in the picture above with their reverse side facing up.
Step 2: Using a 3.25 mm (D-3) crochet hook, attach C4 to point (K1, K2). Seam the edges using a single crochet join in the following order:
(K1, K2) -> B -> (D1, D2) -> J -> (K1, K2) -> (A1, A2, A3) -> (D1, D2)
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Step 3: Attach C4 to point (E1, E2). Seam the edges using a single crochet join in the following order:
(E1, E2) -> F -> (G1, G2) -> J -> (E1, E2)
Step 4: Continue from Step 3 and add a single crochet border to the unseamed edges in the following order:
(E1, E2) -> (A1, A2, A3) -> (G1, G2) -> H -> (E1, E2)
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Pattern
Scroll back up for the Free Tunisian Crochet Squares Pattern for Ashlesha Slippers!
A printable ad-free version is available for purchase in my Ravelry, Etsy and LoveCrochet shops.
Click on the links below to purchase the ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern.
I would love to see your projects on Instagram! Tag your posts with:
@knitterknotter #knitterknotter #madewithknitterknotter
Pin it and make it later!
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Copyright and Terms of Use
This pattern is for personal use only. You are welcome to make and sell handmade items using this pattern but you are required to credit the design to Arunima Goel @ KnitterKnotter by linking back to https://knitterknotter.com. Do not publish or sell this pattern, in part or in full and do not make any video tutorials of this pattern without my permission. When featuring KnitterKnotter in pattern roundups, blog articles or Facebook posts, you may use one of my photos and provide a link back to the original source.
Disclosure
This page may contain affiliate links where I earn a small commission. While using these links doesn’t cost you more, it helps me continue to offer patterns for free. Thank you for your continued support!
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