Slipper boots with Faux Fur Trim – Free Tunisian Crochet Pattern!

When I started making slippers using Tunisian crochet, I experimented with simple construction, mainly. These Shweta slippers are my first attempt at trying something more complex.

As it turns out, these are my favorite slippers that I’ve made so far. They are extremely comfortable, keep my feet warm, and the faux fur trim makes them extra cozy.

Even though the stitches used in this pattern are not very complex, I am qualifying this as an advanced level pattern because of two reasons:
– It was a little hard to work some of the stitches with fingering weight yarn, and
– The construction of each slipper involves making 5 different sections with different stitches and keeping tension even is a challenge.

These slippers are one of my most complex makes and writing up the pattern was equally challenging. Even so, it was worth all the effort since I love how they turned out! This pattern comes in 9 sizes so you can make them for yourself and for your little ones!

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you, if you make a purchase through the link.

The yarn

I have used the Stroll Tweed fingering weight yarn and Fable Fur yarn by Knit Picks to make my slippers. It is easy to work with and makes a dense fabric which is stretchy but doesn’t really change shape with wear. The slippers are light and comfortable to wear.

PURCHASE THE STROLL TWEED YARN FROM KNITPICKS

PURCHASE THE FABLE FUR YARN FROM KNITPICKS

The hooks

I am using Knitter’s Pride Ginger Interchangeable Tunisian Crochet Hooks and Clover Amour Hooks to make my slippers.

In Tunisian crochet, we usually use a hook that is at least 2 sizes larger than the hook recommended for the yarn. But, in this project, we require the tension to be really tight so there is little to no space in between stitches. So, we will use the same hook size that is recommended for the yarn. This is to make sure that the fabric will be dense and the slippers will be snug so they won’t come off while wearing.

Here is a review of the Ginger Tunisian Crochet hooks if you’d like to take a look. There are a bunch of other Tunisian crochet hooks that I use. You can read a review of all the hooks I use here.

CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE THE KNITTER’S PRIDE GINGER TUNISIAN CROCHET HOOK SET

CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE THE CLOVER AMOUR CROCHET HOOK SET

Pattern Sizing

The pattern is written for the smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses:
0-3 Baby “B1” (3-6 Baby “B2”, 7-9 Toddler “T”, 10-13 Child “C”, 1-3 Youth “Y1”, 4-6 Youth “Y2”)[4-6 Woman “W1”, 7-9.5 Woman “W2”, 10-12.5 Woman “W3”]

Yarn requirements are just estimates. If your yarn, hook size, crochet style, or gauge differ, you might need more / less yarn than mentioned below.

Size (US Shoe Size)	Size in pattern	Yardage
0-3 Baby	B1	C1: 86.5 yd / 79 m / 0.3 oz / 9 g C2: 16 yd / 14.5 m / 0.4 oz / 11.2 g
3-6 Baby	B2	C1: 106.5 yd / 97.5 m / 0.4 oz / 12 g C2: 18.5 yd / 17 m / 0.5 oz / 12.9 g
7-9 Toddler	T	C1: 130.5 yd / 119.5 m / 0.5 oz / 14 g C2: 26 yd / 24 m / 0.6 oz / 18.2 g
10-13 Child	C	C1: 167.5 yd / 153 m / 0.6 oz / 18 g C2: 32 yd / 29.5 m / 0.8 oz / 22.4 g
1-3 Youth	Y1	C1: 180 yd / 164.5 m / 0.7 oz / 19 g C2: 39.5 yd / 36 m / 1 oz / 27.8 g
4-6 Youth	Y2	C1: 204.5 yd / 187 m / 0.8 oz / 22 g C2: 42 yd / 38.5 m / 1 oz / 29.4 g
4-6 Women	W1	C1: 221 yd / 202 m / 0.8 oz / 24 g C2: 50.5 yd / 46 m / 1.2 oz / 35.3 g
7-9.5 Women	W2	C1: 267 yd / 244 m / 1 oz / 29 g C2: 55 yd / 50.5 m / 1.4 oz / 38.3 g
10-12.5 Women	W3	C1: 313 yd / 286 m 1.2 oz / 34 g C2: 66 yd / 60.5 m 1.6 oz / 46 g

Pattern

Scroll down for the free pattern.

The PDF version with stitch counts and expected measurements for each section is available for purchase in my Ravelry, Etsy and LoveCrochet shops. The PDF pattern includes 9 sizes:
Baby 0-3
Baby 3-6
Toddler 7-9
Child 10-13
Youth 1-3
Youth 4-6
Woman 4-6
Woman 7-9.5
Woman 10-12.5

I would love to see your projects on Instagram! Tag your posts with:
@knitterknotter #knitterknotter #madewithknitterknotter

Click on the links below to purchase the ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern.

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What you will need (with clickable affiliate links)

1. Yarn: Fingering weight yarn in 1 color and Faux Fur yarn. I used Stroll Tweed fingering weight yarn in color Dalmatian and Fable Fur yarn in color Kuma by Knit Picks. See the Sizing section for yardage.
   Note: I strongly recommend using a light colored yarn for the slippers.
2. Hook: 3.5 mm (E -4) Tunisian crochet hook, 6 mm (J-10) crochet hook to work with the Fur yarn.
3. Scissors
4. Tapestry needle to weave in tails
5. Stitch markers
6. Yarn bowl (optional)

Experience Level

Advanced

Gauge

1. 6 rows of 5 Tunisian Reverse Stitches is a 2 cm (.75”) square using a 3.5 mm (E-4) Tunisian crochet hook. 
2. 5.5 rows of 8 stitches in the Lattice Stitch Pattern is a 2 cm (.75”) square using a 3.5 mm (E-4) Tunisian crochet hook. 

Construction

Each slipper is constructed by making Sections 1, 2, and 3 in that order. After this is done, a base (Section 4) is added to the fabric just constructed and then a faux fur trim (Section 5) is added to complete the slippers.

Note: Section 4 is not shown in the picture.

Abbreviations

1. ch – chain
2. dc – double crochet – Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (2 loops on the hook). Yarn over, pull through two loops (1 loop on the hook).
3. dcdec – double crochet decrease – Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (2 loops on the hook). Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (3 loops on the hook). Yarn over, pull through three loops (1 loop on the hook).
4. fs – First Stitch – Skip the first vertical bar of the previous row (the one right under the one on the hook). The loop on the hook will count as the first stitch for every row. 
5. ls – Last Stitch – Pick up the two vertical bars of the last stitch of the previous row, yarn over, pull through both the vertical bars into a loop on the hook.
6. sc – single crochet – Insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook.
7. trs –  Tunisian Reverse Stitch – Insert hook in the back vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
8. trsdec – Tunisian Reverse Stitch Decrease – Insert hook in the back vertical bar of the next two stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
9. tss – Tunisian Simple Stitch – Insert hook in the vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
10. txs – Tunisian X Stitch – This stitch is used in the Tunisian Lattice Stitch pattern and is worked in two steps:

• Step 1: Insert hook in the next two vertical bars, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.
• Step 2: Insert hook in the first vertical bar from Step 1, yarn over, pull up a loop on the hook.

1. FP – Forward Pass
2. RP – Return Pass

Colors

C1: Fingering weight yarn
C2: Fur yarn

Resources

1. How to make a Foundation Row
2. How to make a Tunisian Simple Stitch
3. How to make a Tunisian Reverse Stitch
4. How to make the Lattice Stitch
5. How to bind off and end a project
6. Tunisian Crochet Hooks
7. How to block a crochet project

Pattern Notes

1. This pattern is written in English / US terms.
2. In Tunisian crochet, we usually use a hook that is at least 2 sizes larger than the hook recommended for the yarn. But, in this project, we require the tension to be really tight so there is little to no space in between stitches. So, we will use the same hook size that is recommended for the yarn.
3. TIP: I recommend not using dark colored yarn for your slippers because it can get very hard to make reverse stitches.
4. This pattern comes with a full video tutorial that explains how to make a the slippers in detail. Scroll down for the video tutorial.
5. The instructions below are only for the forward pass. The return pass for every row is the same:
   • ch1, (yo, pull through two loops)* all the way till the end of the row. 

Instructions (Make 2)

Section 1

Foundation Row:
Using the size 3.5 mm (US E-4) Tunisian crochet hook, chain 42 (48, 54, 66, 68, 72)[74, 80, 84]. Make the foundation row stitches in the back loops of the chain.

Row 1 – 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4)[5, 5, 5]: fs, trs across, ls.

Use a stitch marker to hold the loop that’s on the hook before moving on to Section 2.

Section 2

Notes: 
1. This section of the slippers is made with the Tunisian Lattice Stitch.
2. A new strand of yarn will be needed for this section because we will not cut the yarn used in Section 1. This can be from a different skein or the other end of the skein that you are currently using.

Find the 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16)[16, 18, 22] stitches at the center of Row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4)[5, 5, 5] – Do this by counting 16 (18, 20, 26, 26, 28)[29, 31, 31] stitches from both sides and adding a marker in between the 16 (18, 20, 26, 26, 28)[29, 31, 31]th/st and 17 (19, 21, 27. 27, 29)[30, 32, 32]st/th/nd stitches  (on both sides).

Row 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5)[6, 6, 6]:
This is the set up row for this section – Join the yarn with the 17 (19, 21, 27, 27, 29)[30, 32, 32]th/st/nd stitch by making a tss (this will be fs for this section), 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7)[7, 8, 10] txs, tss (this will be ls for this section).

Remove the two stitch markers that were marking the stitches at the center after completing this row.

Row 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6)[7, 7, 7]: fs, tss, 3 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6)[6, 7, 9] txs, tss, ls.

Row 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7)[8, 8, 8]: fs, 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7)[7, 8, 10] txs, ls.

Row 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8)[9, 9, 9] to 16 (17, 18, 20, 21, 22)[24, 26, 27]: Repeat rows 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6)[7, 7, 7] and 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7)[8, 8, 8].

Row 17 (18, 19, 21, 22, 23)[25, 27, 28]:
Repeat the row before the previous row.

This will be the bind off row. You will make a slip stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

There is no return pass for this row.

Section 3

Notes:  
1. We will work on the remaining stitches from Section 1 and pick up stitches along the three edges from Section 2 here. 
2. This section is the hardest to set up, and I strongly recommend watching the video before you start making it.
– You will need a long cord for the first few rows of this section. The video shows how a long cord can be useful while make this section.
– There are different ways of picking up stitches along the 3 edges of Section 2. I discuss all of them in the video and you can pick whichever works best for you.

Row 18 (19, 20, 22, 23, 24)[26, 28, 29]:
This is the set up row for this section – 
Pick up the loop that was on the stitch marker added at the end of Section 1 and remove the stitch marker.

fs, 
15 (17, 19, 25, 25, 27)[28, 30, 30] trs (work in the stitches from Row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4)[5, 5, 5] of Section 1), 
pick up 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18)[19, 21, 22] stitches along the first edge of Section 2,
pick up 8 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14)[14, 16, 20] stitches along the top edge of Section 2,
pick up 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18)[19, 21, 22] stitches along the third edge of Section 2,
15 (17, 19, 25, 25, 27)[28, 30, 30] trs (work in the stitches from Row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4)[5, 5, 5] of Section 1),
ls

Note: While picking up loops in Section 2, I did not work into the edge stitches. I picked up loops behind the edge stitches to create a raised edge in this section. I recommend watching the video to see how I do it and what the different options are.

Row 19 (20, 21, 23, 24, 25)[27, 29, 30] to 26 (29, 30, 34, 35, 36)[38, 42, 45]: fs, trs across, ls.

Row 27 (30, 31, 35, 36, 37)[39, 43, 46]: Repeat Row 19 (20, 21, 23, 24, 25)[27, 29, 30].

This will be the bind off row. You will make a slip stitch every time you pick up a loop on your hook. Fasten off and weave in ends.

There is no return pass for this row.

Note: Make sure your slip stitches are loose because we will work the base into them.

Section 4

Notes:
1. The base is not a full sole, it is a strip that is worked between two sides of the Section 3 stitches. 
2. The base will be worked from points (X1, X2) along the outer edge to points (Y1, Y2) and then to points (Z1, Z2). 
3. I strongly recommend viewing the  support video for this section before you start making your base.

Row 1

FP: Place 2 stitch markers on the edge chain (that was created while crocheting the bind off slip stitches) indicated by X1 and X2.

X2 – 32 (36, 39, 46, 48, 50)[52, 56, 58]nd/nd/th edge chain from the beginning
X1 – 36 (40, 45, 52, 54, 58)[60, 66, 70]th/nd edge chain from the beginning

With the project right side up, join yarn at X2. Now, insert hook into every edge chain and pick up a loop until you reach the next stitch marker at X1.

RP: *yo and pull through next 2 loops on hook, rep from * until 1 loop remains on hook. 

Now, remove the remaining loop from the hook, insert the hook into the previous chain – 31 (35, 38, 45, 47, 49)[51, 55, 57]st/th edge chain from the beginning, pick up the loop you just removed from the hook and pull through, ch1. 

Note: Don’t forget the ch1 at the end of the RP. 

Rows 2 to 27 (30, 33, 39, 41, 42)[44, 48, 49]

FP: fs, 3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7)[7, 9, 11] tss, join with the next edge chain.

Note: This row is repeated until points Y1 and Y2 are reached. Skip every 8th row to account for the difference in height of Tunisian Simple Stitches at the base and the width of the Tunisian Reverse Stitches from Section 3. Refer to the picture above and the video tutorial.

RP: *yo and pull through next 2 loops on hook, rep from * until 1 loop remains on hook. 

Now, remove the remaining loop from the hook, insert the hook into the previous chain, pick up the loop you just removed from the hook and pull through, ch1. 

Note: Don’t forget the ch1 at the end of the RP. 

Row 28 (31, 34, 40, 42, 43)[45, 49, 50]

FP: fs, 3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7)[7, 9, 11] tss, join with the edge stitch of the row of trs stitches from Section 3 after turning the project by 90 degress (you will now go up the back of the slippers).

RP:

*yo and pull through next 2 loops on hook, rep from * until 1 loop remains on hook. 

Now, remove the remaining loop from the hook, insert the hook into the edge stitch at the other side, pick up the remaining loop you just removed from the hook and pull through, ch1. 

Note: Don’t forget the ch1 at the end of the RP. 

Rows 29 (32, 35, 41, 43, 44)[46, 50, 51] to 38 (43, 44, 53, 55, 54)[57, 61, 62]

FP: fs, 3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7)[7, 9, 11] trs, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

W3 ONLY Row 63

FP: fs, trsdec, 7 trs, trsdec, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

W3 ONLY Row 64

FP: fs, 9 trs, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

Sizes W2 [W3] ONLY Row 62 [65]

FP: fs, trsdec, 5 trs, trsdec, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

Sizes W2 [W3] ONLY Row 63 [66]

FP: fs, 7 trs, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

Sizes Y2 [W1, W2, W3] ONLY Row 55 [58, 64, 67]

FP: fs, trsdec, 3 trs, trsdec, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

Sizes Y2 [W1, W2, W3] ONLY Row 56 [59, 65, 68]

FP: fs, 5 trs, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

Sizes (T, C, Y1, Y2 )[W1, W2, W3] ONLY Row (45, 54, 56, 57)[60, 66, 69]

FP: fs, trsdec, trs, trsdec, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

Sizes (T, C, Y1, Y2 )[W1, W2, W3] ONLY Row (46, 55, 57, 58)[61, 67, 70]

FP: fs, 3 trs, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

All Sizes Row39 (44, 47, 56, 58, 59)[62, 68, 71]

FP: fs, trsdec, trs, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

All Sizes Row 40 (45, 48, 57, 59, 60)[63, 69, 72]

FP: fs, 2 trs, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: Repeat RP from previous row.

All Sizes Row 41 (46, 49, 58, 60, 61)[64, 70, 73]

FP: fs, trsdec, join with the next edge stitch.
RP: yo, pull through all loops on the hook. 

Now, remove the remaining loop from the hook, insert the hook into edge stitch at the other side, pick up the remaining loop you just removed from the hook and pull through, ch1. Do NOT cut yarn.

Section 5 (Adding the Fur top)

Note: We will work this section in the foundation row chain from Section 1.

Step 1: Join the yarn with the first chain of the foundation row from Section 1.

Step 2: sc in same chain as Step 1, (ch2, skip next ch, sc in next ch) x 20 (23, 26, 32, 33, 35)[36, 39, 41], ch2, join with first sc with a slip stitch. Cut yarn and weave in ends. 

Step 3: With a 6 mm (J-10) crochet hook, attach the faux fur yarn in one chain space, ch2, dc in next chain space, dcdec x 9 (11, 12, 15, 16, 17)[17, 19, 20], 
sizes B1, T, C, W1 ONLY dc in next chain space, 
all sizes join with the ch2 stitches from the beginning of the row with a slip stitch. 

Step 4: Make 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4)[5, 5, 6] rows of dc stitches using these instructions: ch2 (counts as the first dc), dc in next dcdec x 9 (11, 12, 15, 16, 17)[17, 19, 20] times, 
sizes B1, T, C, W1 ONLY dc in next dc,
all sizes join with the ch2 stitches from the beginning of the row with a slip stitch.

Step 5: Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Support Videos

Pattern

Scroll down for the free pattern.

The PDF version with stitch counts and expected measurements for each section is available for purchase in my Ravelry, Etsy and LoveCrochet shops. The PDF pattern includes 9 sizes:
Baby 0-3
Baby 3-6
Toddler 7-9
Child 10-13
Youth 1-3
Youth 4-6
Woman 4-6
Woman 7-9.5
Woman 10-12.5

I would love to see your projects on Instagram! Tag your posts with:
@knitterknotter #knitterknotter #madewithknitterknotter

Click on the links below to purchase the ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern (includes a photo tutorial for making an I-Cord).

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– Share them on Instagram with the tags #knitterknotter, #madewithknitterknotter, and @knitterknotter
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Copyright and Terms of Use

This pattern is for personal use only. You are welcome to make and sell handmade items using this pattern but you are required to credit the design to Arunima Goel @ KnitterKnotter by linking back to https://knitterknotter.com. Do not publish or sell this pattern, in part or in full and do not make any video tutorials of this pattern without my permission. When featuring KnitterKnotter in pattern roundups, blog articles or Facebook posts, you may use one of my photos and provide a link back to the original source.

Disclosure

This page may contain affiliate links where I earn a small commission. While using these links doesn’t cost you more, it helps me continue to offer patterns for free. Thank you for your continued support!

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